Root Barrier Selector
Answer a few questions to find the right barrier for tree roots or bamboo.
Buyer's Guide
What a Root Barrier Does
A root barrier is installed vertically in a trench between a plant and whatever its roots need to be kept away from — a sidewalk, driveway, foundation, curb line, sewer line, utility run or a neighbor's property. It is not intended to kill the plant. It is intended to redirect growth, either downward and away from the structure, or back inside the area where you want it to stay.
Two very different problems bring people here, and they call for different products. Tree roots damage what is above them: a structural root thickening in the loose backfill under a slab is what lifts pavement, cracks concrete and creates a trip hazard. Running bamboo spreads sideways through shallow rhizomes, and a planting left uncontained will travel into lawns, beds and adjoining yards. The selector above sorts for both; the sections below explain the reasoning.
Tree Roots or Bamboo?
Tree root barrier
Protects hardscape and buried services from structural roots. Depth is set by the species and the soil, and the barrier is usually run along one side — between the tree and the thing being protected — rather than encircling it.
- Sidewalks, driveways and curb lines
- Foundations, sewer lines and utility runs
- Depths from 12″ to 48″
- Panels, continuous roll, fabric or copper
Bamboo rhizome barrier
Contains running bamboo. Because rhizomes travel shallow and sideways, the barrier is installed as a closed loop around the planting, with the top edge left standing proud so escaping rhizomes can be seen and cut.
- Running bamboo and other spreading rhizomes
- Installed as a ring, not a single run
- Typically 24″ to 30″ deep
- Heavy gauge HDPE, 60 mil and up
Types of Root Barrier
Four constructions, each suited to different conditions. The selector matches them to your site; here is what separates them.
How Deep Should a Root Barrier Be?
Depth determines whether the barrier works at all, because anything a root or rhizome can travel beneath achieves nothing. There is no universal figure for trees — rooting depth varies with species, soil, climate and rainfall, and the same tree roots very differently in sand than in heavy clay. Bamboo is more predictable, because running rhizomes stay shallow.
| Application | Typical depth | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Running bamboo | 24″–30″ | Closed loop, top edge standing proud of grade |
| Light paving, less vigorous species | 12″–18″ | Garden paths, patios, light-duty edges |
| Sidewalks and street trees | 24″ | The standard specification for most urban work |
| Roadways, structural paving, vigorous species | 36″ | Heavier loading and more aggressive rooting |
| Deep utilities, most aggressive species | 48″ and above | Sewer and service runs, mature specimen trees |
Where rooting depth is unknown, excavate an exploratory hole to confirm it, or have an ISA-certified arborist assess the site. Specifying too shallow is the costly error, and on a deep installation it is the trenching rather than the barrier that carries the cost.
Root Barrier Installation
-
1Set the line and check utilities
For trees, run the barrier between the tree and the element being protected. For bamboo, lay out a closed loop around the planting. Confirm clearances before breaking ground.
-
2Trench to depth, keeping the wall plumb
A clean vertical face makes the barrier easier to set and keeps it from leaning once backfilled.
-
3Leave the top edge proud
Set the barrier 1–2″ above finished grade. A visible edge is what lets you spot a surface root or an escaping rhizome and cut it before it crosses. On bamboo this is not optional — it is how the containment is maintained.
-
4Join and orient correctly
Panels clip together. HDPE overlaps and is taped or clamped. Ribbed panels face their ribs toward the tree. On a bamboo loop, overlap the ends generously and clamp the seam rather than butting it.
-
5Backfill in layers and inspect
Keep the barrier vertical as you go, then check the finished run for gaps, displaced sections or reversed pieces.
Root Barrier FAQs
What is a root barrier?
A root barrier is a sheet, panel or fabric installed vertically in a trench to redirect root growth. It sits between a plant and whatever needs protecting — pavement, a foundation, a buried service — or encircles a planting to keep it contained. It redirects growth rather than killing the plant.
What is the best root barrier?
There is no single best type, which is why four are offered. Ribbed panels suit confined cutouts close to the trunk. Continuous HDPE roll suits long perimeter runs and bamboo loops. Root control fabric suits irregular shapes and pipe wraps. Copper composite suits aggressive invasives and sites where a herbicide is not acceptable.
How deep does a root barrier need to be?
For running bamboo, 24″ to 30″ is the usual specification. For trees it depends on species, soil, climate and rainfall: 12″–18″ for light paving, 24″ for standard sidewalk and street tree work, 36″ for roadways and vigorous species, and 48″ or above for deep utilities.
How deep should a bamboo root barrier be?
Typically 24″ to 30″. Running bamboo rhizomes travel shallow, so depth matters less than two other things: installing the barrier as a closed loop with no gap, and leaving the top edge standing proud of grade so escaping rhizomes can be seen and cut.
How do I stop bamboo from spreading?
Contain it with a rhizome barrier installed as a complete loop around the planting, 24″ to 30″ deep, with the top edge left above grade. Then walk the edge once a year and cut back any rhizome that has reached it. A barrier with a gap, or one buried flush, will be crossed eventually.
Do root barriers actually work?
Yes, provided they are deep enough and continuous. Barriers fail in two ways: a root travels beneath one set too shallow, or it finds a route through a joint or gap. Specify the correct depth and keep the run unbroken and they perform as intended.
Will a root barrier kill my tree?
No. Physical barriers redirect roots rather than severing them. When retrofitting near an established tree, pair the barrier with selective root pruning by an ISA-certified arborist so the work is done in a way the tree can tolerate.
Can I use weed barrier or landscape fabric as a root barrier?
No. Landscape fabrics are made to suppress weed germination, not to resist a structural root or a bamboo rhizome. Roots grow through, around and beneath them. Redirecting a root requires a rigid ribbed panel, a solid HDPE sheet, a treated root control fabric or a copper composite.
Can roots grow over the top of a barrier?
They can attempt it, which is why the top edge is set proud of grade rather than buried flush. A visible edge allows a surface root or rhizome to be identified and cut before it crosses. On higher-risk sites, a deeper barrier provides more margin.
Where does the barrier go in relation to the tree?
Between the tree and the element being protected, with the functional face toward the tree — ribs facing the roots on a panel system. For bamboo it is different: the barrier encircles the planting, containing it rather than shielding one structure.
Can I install a root barrier myself?
Yes, given a trench. None of the four types requires specialist plant or heat welding — panels clip, HDPE cuts with a utility knife and joins with tape or clamps, fabric cuts to size and pins together. Excavation is the demanding part, and on deep or long runs a trencher is worth hiring.
What does shipping cost?
Nothing. Shipping is free on every order at Landscape Discount, across every barrier type and size.